The corrosion repair on the 99 Turbo is finally almost done.
Basically what’s left to do is fixing the driver side door. The “good” doors I had turned out to be not so good… The passenger side door needed just a few patches but the driver side door needs to be re-skinned. More on that later.
So – it’s starting to look like the car will be in primer before the spring!
The Saab 99 Turbo is proceeding once again – welding as usual…
I had a busy summer and the project was pretty much on hold for a few months. At the moment it looks like I will not be able to put too many hours on the car but the plan is to have all the body work done this winter.
But – at least the floor, trunk area and the rear quarters are done! The one major thing to do is to fix the engine bay area and the windscreen frame. And then there is some smaller stuff like fixing the doors, but they are not too bad.
Making a welding jig for the front section
We came up with a plan to make jigs to keep the various pieces in the front in correct position while welding. So we constructed jigs for the front end of the fenders and also for the window frame.
I did an engine re-build for fellow Saab enthusiast, including a fully restored crankshaft with all new bearings. As I got ready to installing the engine back in the car I decided to use my GoPro camera to record it.
So – here you go: Engine installation in a Saab 96 two-stroke 1964 video
I got myself a 1959 Saab 93B DeLuxe. Three cylinders, 750 cc, three speed manual, suicide doors originally. Strictly speaking it’s not a barn find since the owner had it for sale, but it has stayed in a barn for 20+ years… But it most definitely is a basket case since it has been completely taken apart.
I had seen the for sale listing a few times, but the car seemed like too much project. After thinking about it for a while I decided to go at least see it anyway. Maybe it would be worth the parts if nothing else.
The parts were in a barn and it looked like quite a bit had been lost over the years. At least the original 750 cc engine, seats, roof lining, front hubs, and what not were missing.
The body was in another barn. Restoration had been started, but never gotten much further than taking the car apart. Some welding had been done (and need to be re-done), but that’s about it.
It was pretty obvious that a restoration is not really a good idea. But I have a few ideas on what to do with it…
I managed to get the price knocked down quite a bit and now I own a Saab 93B. It will be a long term project. There are other cars to finish first. So – no project posts on this for a long while. But some day…
I bought a Shrinker Stretcher machine. I have seen them used on some Youtube channels and they looked pretty handy. They seem to help a lot in making tighter curves and radiuses. The English Wheel is handy also, but the Shrinker Stretcher seems to speed up some operations a lot. Also – at my skill level – shrinking edges with just a hammer and a dolly (or stump) is challenging. Making an even shrink along an edge is especially difficult. So, I decided to try it out.
How a Shrinker Stretcher works
The device comes with two sets of jaws. One set for shrinking and another for stretching. The jaws clamp on the piece of sheet metal and pull the metal in towards the center (or push out if stretching) when you pull on the handle. This forces the metal to curve.
The jaws can shrink and stretch steel about two inches or 5 cm deep, and around 1 mm thick.
Above you can see the teeth marks the jaws make on the metal. These need some smoothing out after the desired shape has been attained. An English Wheel is a great help.
Foot operation stand
Already after my limited experience I would say that a foot operation stand is a must. A stand would have cost almost as much as the device, so we decided to make one of scrap metal. The pedal is a Saab 96 brake pedal.
The foot stand gives you a lot more power but it also frees up both hands to hold and guide the piece you are working with.
Repairing a Saab 99 Turbo rear brake dust shield
So here’s the first real test repair where I used the shrinker stretcher.
All in all I have to say that using the shrinker was a lot easier than I thought. Ofcourse making complex panels is a completely different thing, but for small parts like this it seems a real helper.
I’m putting the Saab 96 Rallycar up for sale (not for sale anymore) since I have a new project coming (more on that later) and I simply do not have the room to keep them all. If you have followed the blog you pretty much know what I’m selling – check out http://www.saabisti.fi/1969-saab-96-rally/
The car has competition history from the seventies, but was later returned to civilian use. It has been restored to original competition colours.
No rust. Great car for Pro Regularity racing. Historic racing would require new rollcage, new seats, belts and safety gear.
Around 2000 km since rebuild. Very nice engine, healthy Hp. Could use a proper tune-up of the Webers and the distributor for maximum power.
1.8 Liter engine
– New+1mm OHC/Pinto pistons, Mahle
– Inspected for cracks 1.7 crankshaft
– 7.6 camshaft (Finnish specialist GT Motor)
– Lightweight valve plates, lifters, pushrods and stronger springs by ClassicSaabRacing
– Stock heads with opened up exhaust ports
– All bearings New
– Light weight flywheel
– CT cross-flow manifold, 2x Weber DCOE 40
– Electric fuel pump (Mitsubishi)
– High flow oil pump, New
– 99 radiator, electric fan
– longer 1st and 2nd (Not Special)
– opened, inspected, adjusted, works great
– freewheel disabled
Body and chassis
– strenghtening plates
– no rust / welded
– sump guard with Sport&Rally fittings
– Mexico brackets
– Saab 95 rear axle (stronger)
– Strengthened suspension parts front and rear (as per Sport&Rally)
– strengthened 2.5″ exhaust system, exits next to gear box (S&R style)
– rollcage (needs to be replaced if raced)
– sport seats (needs to be replaced if raced)
– 4 point security harness (needs to be replaced if raced)
– New brake disk, refurbished calipers, Saab 95 pistons rear, new pads and shoes
– Extra lights (quickrelease)
– main power switch
– Some signs of use (dents etc)
– oil pressure cage, oil temp cage, rev counter
Also available spare parts, negotiable:
– Some new parts, gaskets, bearings etc
– Front fenders – Longnose grille complete
– Sport&Rally grille complete
– Block, heads, other engine parts
– 1.5 cranks
– 1.5 engine in running condition (77)
– V4 stock gearboxes
– miscellaneous stuff