A few photos on getting some primer on some of the suspension components and other stuff. We needed to make new fuel tank belts since the old ones were rotten and decided to use slightly thicker material for them.
All the components were thoroughly cleaned using electrolysis and mechanical cleaning (glass bead blasting). Some of the components – like the rear axle – was somewhat pitted and there are some nooks where you just can’t remove rust completely. These components were treated with rust converter before primer.
And ofcourse all the bushings were replaced with new ones.
I’m actually thinking about painting the springs red as the were in the 1978 Saab 99 Turbo brochure. But I am not sure the car came with red springs from the factory. It may just be something for the brochure. I need to find some more info on that.
I decided to do a few small side projects. Restoration tends to get a bit monotonous so it’s nice to do something else every now and again.
The first “project” was to clean up an old Monitor blow torch I got. It was relatively simple. I took it apart and used some old cleaning compound to clean it up and used rust converter on the heat shield (it’s made of steel where as rest of the components are brass). Took some doing but I think it came out nice. I deliberately left most of the “patina” and didn’t try get a mirror finish.
The other project was just having some fun with an old Singer sewing machine. It was completely toast and missing parts already and I was thinking about throwing it away. But then I had the idea to make “sewing machine tractor” out of it and some old junk parts. Most effort went into finding suitable wheels (damaged Saab Sport drive shaft parts), some rusty bearings from a two stroke gearbox, wheels from a broken hydraulic jack and also some of the parts from the Singer itself. The steering wheel I welded of bicycle chain. Basically my take on junk “art” 😀
I restored the alternator and starter motor. Pretty straightforward job other than the pulley and fan on the alternator being pretty stuck. Mostly just a bit of cleanup, glass bead blasting and new paint. I also replaced the old nuts and washers with new shiny ones. I still need to send the fan and pulley to be zinc coated and yellow passivated with the other parts needing new surface treatment.
I have seen body solder used in some custom car shows over the years, but have not tried it myself. It’s sometimes also called “lead loading” since in the golden age of Hot Rodding lead was used to fill and shape body panels. Epoxy fillers (“bondo”) were not really available back in the day so body solder was used instead to even out the surface for paint.
Here’s an example:
People usually describe body solder use as difficult and a “lost art”, so I kind of thought it as too time consuming to start learning it. But as a fellow Saab enthusiast decided to use it on his project car – a 1965 Saab Special – I decided to give it a go myself. Body solder does have some advantages over epoxy filler – it doesn’t attract moisture and it’s flexible. You can still work with a body panel after solder has been applied as it will form with the steel unlike bondo (it will crack).
But the more important thing is the fact that bondo will suck in moisture if it’s not completely sealed in. Danger spots are weld seams that may have minor holes or cracks in them where the water can come in from the back of the panel. This of course will ruin the paint some time later. Body solder on the other hand will fill the seam and keep the moisture from seeping under the paint.
So – how hard can it be? As it turned out – not hard at all.
Unleaded or leaded body solder?
There are basically two types of body solders. Lead free and leaded. There’s bit of a trade-off between these:
Unleaded is a lot safer but it is more difficult to use and requires more heat to melt. This in turn may cause the body panel that is worked on to warp from heat (happened to me on the rear quarter). It’s also a harder material which equals more work when sanding it down. And because of the high melting point it doesn’t stay in a malleable form so it’s near impossible to shape when applied.
Leaded body solder on the other hand contains lead, which is indeed poisonous. You definitely need to use glowes with it and preferably not breathe in any fumes. But it is a lot easier to use in my experience. It’s softer than the lead free solder so it’s faster to sand down. It is also relatively easy to keep in a buttery state by applying just the right amount of heat. This means you can shape, spread and smooth it out when working with it.
My recommendation: Try them both and see which you prefer.
In addition to the solder bars you need a small torch – a typical butane torch will do – and a wooden paddle to spread the solder around. You can soak the paddle in parafin or food oil to keep the solder from sticking to it.
Also soldering paste is needed for priming the surface. The paste is basically acid (flux) with a bonding agent and powdered solder. It also comes in leaded and lead free mixes. You also need some baking soda mixed with water to neutralize the acid after priming.
Youtube is filled with videos on body solder usage – just search “body solder”. Many guys there have a lot more experience than me so this is basically just for inspiration – even a complete beginner can get some pretty nice results.
The most difficult part is learning to control the heat. Use the torch with a small flame first. I used the lead free solder here as I only needed to fill a low spot and there was no need to shape the solder. Only to sand it down.
So – it’s not as difficult as some say. Now that I have some experience in using it I actually quite enjoy using body solder. And prefer to use it where I can. Of course epoxy filler still has it’s uses to fine tune the surface but from now on I will use body solder as much as possible.
Brakes on the Saab 99 can be a bit tricky to fix these days. All the components can be found but probably not off-the-shelf at the local auto parts store. The Saab Club Sweden can help with some of the components, like seal kits. Also new dust shields are available – although not very cheap…
I decided to go by the route of fixing the brakes myself. This meant taking the original suspension completely apart. So a few photos on the brake job below.
First a look at the rear axle:
All the brake components are then pretty much awaiting installation on the Turbo. I also bought new brake lines, shoes and installation kits. The brake lines and shoes were available at the local auto parts store but the installation kit I got from Saab Club Sweden.
The corrosion repair on the 99 Turbo is finally almost done.
Basically what’s left to do is fixing the driver side door. The “good” doors I had turned out to be not so good… The passenger side door needed just a few patches but the driver side door needs to be re-skinned. More on that later.
So – it’s starting to look like the car will be in primer before the spring!