Saab 99 Turbo part 9 – front section welding

The Saab 99 Turbo is proceeding once again – welding as usual…

I had a busy summer and the project was pretty much on hold for a few months. At the moment it looks like I will not be able to put too many hours on the car but the plan is to have all the body work done this winter.

But – at least the floor, trunk area and the rear quarters are done! The one major thing to do is to fix the engine bay area and the windscreen frame. And then there is some smaller stuff like fixing the doors, but they are not too bad.

Rust repairs on the  trunk area and floor are now done. I sprayed on some epoxy to keep it from rusting while other sections of the car are done.
Rust repairs on the trunk area and floor are now done. I sprayed on some epoxy to keep it from rusting while other sections of the car are done.
Wheel well area.
Wheel well area.
The spare tire compartment came out pretty nice.
The spare tire compartment came out pretty nice.

Making a welding jig for the front section

We came up with a plan to make jigs to keep the various pieces in the front in correct position while welding. So we constructed jigs for the front end of the fenders and also for the window frame.

Making a welding jig for the front section. This will help keep the fenders in place while fitting everything.
Making a welding jig for the front section. This will help keep the fenders in place while fitting everything.
The windscreen frame bottom section was badly corroded and needed to be replaced. We made jig for it using the water holes as fixed points.
The windscreen frame bottom section was badly corroded and needed to be replaced. We made jig for it using the water holes as fixed points.
Most of the rusty pieces cut away.
Most of the rusty pieces cut away.

Welding the window frame

The bottom section of the windscreen frame was badly rusted and the easiest solution was just to replace it completely.
The bottom section of the windscreen frame was badly rusted and the easiest solution was just to replace it completely.
Before welding in the piece we cleaned and painted the heater area. It's not easy to do afterwards.
Before welding in the piece we cleaned and painted the heater area. It’s not easy to do afterwards.
The welding jig ensured the correct position.
The welding jig ensured the correct position.
And the window frame welded. Compared to some of the other stuff this was pretty straightforward to do.
And the window frame welded. Compared to some of the other stuff this was pretty straightforward to do.

Bonnet fitting problem

It seems the spare bonnet we had was a little too narrow at the rear.
It seems the spare bonnet we had was a little too narrow at the rear.
We tried to stretch it with a jack, but it seems the Saab 99 bonnet is just too stiff to easily accomplish this. Fortunately it seems I found a better bonnet and need try it later.
We tried to stretch it with a jack, but it seems the Saab 99 bonnet is just too stiff to easily accomplish this. Fortunately it seems I found a better bonnet and need try it later.

Making a bigger hole for the light

Removing some storage rust on the front fender.
Removing some storage rust on the front fender.
Making a bigger hole for the light.
Making a bigger hole for the light.
And the hole done.
And the hole done.

Fitting the fenders

Cutting away some more rust.
Cutting away some more rust.
Fitting replacement pieces.
Fitting replacement pieces.
And fitting the fender.
And fitting the fender.
Fender in welding jig.
Fender in welding jig.
Fitting the right hand side fender.
Fitting the right hand side fender.
Seems like nice fit here.
Seems like nice fit here.
Looks like a bit of a job here.
Looks like a bit of a job here.

Saab 93B DeLuxe 1959 – Barn Find Basket Case

I got myself a 1959 Saab 93B DeLuxe. Three cylinders, 750 cc, three speed manual, suicide doors originally. Strictly speaking it’s not a barn find since the owner had it for sale, but it has stayed in a barn for 20+ years… But it most definitely is a basket case since it has been completely taken apart.

I had seen the for sale listing a few times, but the car seemed like too much project. After thinking about it for a while I decided to go at least see it anyway. Maybe it would be worth the parts if nothing else.

The parts were in a barn and it looked like quite a bit had been lost over the years. At least the original 750 cc engine, seats, roof lining, front hubs, and what not were missing.

The body was in another barn. Restoration had been started, but never gotten much further than taking the car apart. Some welding had been done (and need to be re-done), but that’s about it.

It was pretty obvious that a restoration is not really a good idea. But I have a few ideas on what to do with it…

I managed to get the price knocked down quite a bit and now I own a Saab 93B. It will be a long term project. There are other cars to finish first. So – no project posts on this for a long while. But some day…

Here’s some photos:

 

Using Shrinker/Stretcher to repair Saab 99 brake dust shields

I bought a Shrinker Stretcher machine. I have seen them used on some Youtube channels and they looked pretty handy. They seem to help a lot in making tighter curves and radiuses. The English Wheel is handy also, but the Shrinker Stretcher seems to speed up some operations a lot. Also – at my skill level – shrinking edges with just a hammer and a dolly (or stump) is challenging. Making an even shrink along an edge is especially difficult. So, I decided to try it out.

How a Shrinker Stretcher works

Shrinker Stretcher jaws
Shrinker Stretcher jaws

The device comes with two sets of jaws. One set for shrinking and another for stretching. The jaws clamp on the piece of sheet metal and pull the metal in towards the center (or push out if stretching) when you pull on the handle. This forces the metal to curve.

The jaws can shrink and stretch steel about two inches or 5 cm deep, and around 1 mm thick.

Shrinker teeth marks on a piece of metal.
Shrinker teeth marks on a piece of metal.

Above you can see the teeth marks the jaws make on the metal. These need some smoothing out after the desired shape has been attained. An English Wheel is a great help.

Foot operation stand

Food stand helps operating the machine by keeping both hands free.
Food stand helps operating the machine by keeping both hands free.

Already after my limited experience I would say that a foot operation stand is a must. A stand would have cost almost as much as the device, so we decided to make one of scrap metal. The pedal is a Saab 96 brake pedal.

The foot stand gives you a lot more power but it also frees up both hands to hold and guide the piece you are working with.

Repairing a Saab 99 Turbo rear brake dust shield

So here’s the first real test repair where I used the shrinker stretcher.

All in all I have to say that using the shrinker was a lot easier than I thought. Ofcourse making complex panels is a completely different thing, but for small parts like this it seems a real helper.

Saab 96 Rally 1969 For Sale

The car is no longer for sale.

I’m putting the Saab 96 Rallycar up for sale (not for sale anymore) since I have a new project coming (more on that later) and I simply do not have the room to keep them all. If you have followed the blog you pretty much know what I’m selling – check out http://www.saabisti.fi/1969-saab-96-rally/

Here’s a link to a Finnish listing:

Lisää ilmoituksia.

And here’s some info in English:

Saab 96 V4 1969

The car has competition history from the seventies, but was later returned to civilian use. It has been restored to original competition colours.

No rust. Great car for Pro Regularity racing. Historic racing would require new rollcage, new seats, belts and safety gear.

Around 2000 km since rebuild. Very nice engine, healthy Hp. Could use a proper tune-up of the Webers and the distributor for maximum power.

1.8 Liter engine
– New+1mm OHC/Pinto pistons, Mahle
– Inspected for cracks 1.7 crankshaft
– 7.6 camshaft (Finnish specialist GT Motor)
– Lightweight valve plates, lifters, pushrods and stronger springs by ClassicSaabRacing
– Stock heads with opened up exhaust ports
– All bearings New
– Light weight flywheel
– CT cross-flow manifold, 2x Weber DCOE 40
– Electric fuel pump (Mitsubishi)
– High flow oil pump, New
– 99 radiator, electric fan

Gearbox
– longer 1st and 2nd (Not Special)
– opened, inspected, adjusted, works great
– freewheel disabled

Body and chassis
– strenghtening plates
– no rust / welded
– sump guard with Sport&Rally fittings
– Mexico brackets
– Saab 95 rear axle (stronger)
– Strengthened suspension parts front and rear (as per Sport&Rally)
– strengthened 2.5″ exhaust system, exits next to gear box (S&R style)
– rollcage (needs to be replaced if raced)
– sport seats (needs to be replaced if raced)
– 4 point security harness (needs to be replaced if raced)
– New brake disk, refurbished calipers, Saab 95 pistons rear, new pads and shoes
– Extra lights (quickrelease)
– main power switch
– Some signs of use (dents etc)
– oil pressure cage, oil temp cage, rev counter

Also available spare parts, negotiable:
– Some new parts, gaskets, bearings etc
Used:
– Hood
– Front fenders
– Longnose grille complete
Sport&Rally grille complete
– Block, heads, other engine parts
– 1.5 cranks
– 1.5 engine in running condition (77)
– V4 stock gearboxes
– miscellaneous stuff

Asking price 7 900 euro / offer
Phone +358 44 214 2552
Email saabisti.jarvinen@gmail.com

Saab 96 T5 Mid Engine

Saab 96 T5 – sounds interesting enough. But at the Back? Now that looks like an interesting project. Unfortunately I don’t know a lot about it. But this guy is fitting a Saab NG900 engine and suspension in an old Saab 96 sprint car and making it mid engine.

There’s some photos at this Google gallery, but other than that I don’t really know much more, other than it is work in progress. Looks like it’s coming along nicely.

Saab 96 T5 Mid Engine Project Google Gallery
Saab 96 T5 Mid Engine Project Google Gallery

This is pretty much exactly what i was thinking of doing at one point. Although I would have done it in a bullnose 96 or 93…