Brakes on the Saab 99 can be a bit tricky to fix these days. All the components can be found but probably not off-the-shelf at the local auto parts store. The Saab Club Sweden can help with some of the components, like seal kits. Also new dust shields are available – although not very cheap…
I decided to go by the route of fixing the brakes myself. This meant taking the original suspension completely apart. So a few photos on the brake job below.
First a look at the rear axle:
All the brake components are then pretty much awaiting installation on the Turbo. I also bought new brake lines, shoes and installation kits. The brake lines and shoes were available at the local auto parts store but the installation kit I got from Saab Club Sweden.
The corrosion repair on the 99 Turbo is finally almost done.
Basically what’s left to do is fixing the driver side door. The “good” doors I had turned out to be not so good… The passenger side door needed just a few patches but the driver side door needs to be re-skinned. More on that later.
So – it’s starting to look like the car will be in primer before the spring!
The Saab 99 Turbo is proceeding once again – welding as usual…
I had a busy summer and the project was pretty much on hold for a few months. At the moment it looks like I will not be able to put too many hours on the car but the plan is to have all the body work done this winter.
But – at least the floor, trunk area and the rear quarters are done! The one major thing to do is to fix the engine bay area and the windscreen frame. And then there is some smaller stuff like fixing the doors, but they are not too bad.
Making a welding jig for the front section
We came up with a plan to make jigs to keep the various pieces in the front in correct position while welding. So we constructed jigs for the front end of the fenders and also for the window frame.
I bought a Shrinker Stretcher machine. I have seen them used on some Youtube channels and they looked pretty handy. They seem to help a lot in making tighter curves and radiuses. The English Wheel is handy also, but the Shrinker Stretcher seems to speed up some operations a lot. Also – at my skill level – shrinking edges with just a hammer and a dolly (or stump) is challenging. Making an even shrink along an edge is especially difficult. So, I decided to try it out.
How a Shrinker Stretcher works
The device comes with two sets of jaws. One set for shrinking and another for stretching. The jaws clamp on the piece of sheet metal and pull the metal in towards the center (or push out if stretching) when you pull on the handle. This forces the metal to curve.
The jaws can shrink and stretch steel about two inches or 5 cm deep, and around 1 mm thick.
Above you can see the teeth marks the jaws make on the metal. These need some smoothing out after the desired shape has been attained. An English Wheel is a great help.
Foot operation stand
Already after my limited experience I would say that a foot operation stand is a must. A stand would have cost almost as much as the device, so we decided to make one of scrap metal. The pedal is a Saab 96 brake pedal.
The foot stand gives you a lot more power but it also frees up both hands to hold and guide the piece you are working with.
Repairing a Saab 99 Turbo rear brake dust shield
So here’s the first real test repair where I used the shrinker stretcher.
All in all I have to say that using the shrinker was a lot easier than I thought. Ofcourse making complex panels is a completely different thing, but for small parts like this it seems a real helper.
Some more metal work – The spare tire compartment floor was badly corroded on the 99 Turbo. At first I thought about making it one piece with hammer and dolly and the english wheel, but it was just a little too complex a shape for my skill level. So, I ended up making it in manageable pieces and used what was left of the original piece.